Friday, December 4, 2009

Marmot Commerical

Sinuhe (sin-way) Xavier directed this little film during the early part of November, at the peak of the Indian Creek climbing season. Ace Kvale was kind enough to invite Sinuhe along for one of his still shoots with Marmot athletes and mountain guides; Keith Garvey, Angela Hawse, and Christian Santelices

The shoot took place at one of the more remote crags in Indian Creek called "The Wall." We had a somewhat hot spell of weather, so The Wall was perfect. It sits in a u-shaped alcove providing three different aspects, great for shade chasing or sun baking depending on your needs. The two nights out we spent at the Pasture Creek campground...Indian Creek is paradise!

Skiing the Alps with AMA

Opening footage of AMA slideshow last night at Neptune
The main slideshow was promoting AMA ski trips to La Grave, the Haute Route, Berner Oberland and Skiing Mt. Blanc. To learn more: www.AllMountainAdventures.com

Monday, November 16, 2009

Indian Creek


The last weekend in October we made our annual pilgrimage to Indian Creek. About one hour south of Moab, UT this place is a crack climbers paradise! If you have never been, you must check it out. There are desert towers to climb, world class mountain biking, jeepin' (if your into it) and always a bunch of amazing people around. Check out these photos John Heisel put together of our trip.

http://heiselportraits.com/multimedia/odetoindiancreek.mov

All Mixed Up 11/10/09


Robert Krinsky and I climbed All Mixed Up on this beautiful November day. Not a single person was seen and we were fortunate to have relatively warm weather and very light wind. Somewhat unexpected for RMNP. We had a blast climbing it! Here's a great view of the four pitch route in it's entirety.

The first pitch was relatively easy WI 2+, with only a few thin sections. In general, fun easy fat ice.

Pitch two had a fair bit of moderate mixed climbing. Really fun, but somewhat hard to protect. If you look hard enough you can find small stopper and cam placements and the occasional piton along the way. The crux of the route in these conditions, probably WI 4- M3+, super FUN!
The upper section of the second pitch is below. Pitch three starts out with a short steep step followed by a low angle snow ramp. The belay is off to the left of the last pillar. With small to medium size cams you can make an excellent rock anchor here.

The final pitch which is usually the crux at WI4, felt more like WI3 with a short mixed step exiting the cave on the left side of the flow.

Robert pulling the final moves!
Looking at the west side of Long's Peak during our descent. The main couloir heading up Long's is the Trough.
Some nice words from Robert after our climb.....

"This was among the best ice climbing outings that I have enjoyed in the 3 years that I have been at it. The day's success was due to your impressive technical skill, first rate temperment, clarity of instruction, attention to safety, engaging personality, and a wonderful zest for adventure. It would be a terrific to be guided by you again, thanks Keith."

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

AMGA Alpine Exam

Martin Volken a fellow instructor and examiner for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) put together this amazing video of what it takes to get an alpine certification. Check it out!

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

La Grave Freeriding

During a rare day off from guiding, Keith Garvey captured a blower ski day on February 10, 2009 with his helmet cam. He caught up with Liz and Miles Smart also mountain guides and Marmot athletes to take full advantage of this amazing off-piste ski area.

La Grave Freeriding with Helmet Cam from Keith Garvey on Vimeo.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Climbing D7 on the Diamond


On 8/1/09 Austin Wallace and I climbed D7 on the Diamond. We dedicated our ascent to the late and great John Bachar who put up the first free ascent in '78. This was also Austin's 14th anniversary for his first time climbing the Diamond at age 16. At the time he and his friend were the youngest to climb the Diamond as well as the youngest to have a full blown epic. Trying to get up and over Long's they were forced to bivy, which led to a restless shiver fest all night long and extremely worried parents. With 14 years of Diamond experience and over 40+ combine ascents, this was far from our intentions today.

D7 is an amazing line and should be high on the list for any accomplished climber. Below are just a few photos and a short video from our climb.

We were greeted with a great sunrise. Looking out at "The Crag's"
With unseasonably cool temperatures this past week, we arrived into the Long's peak cirque seeing snow on the summit of Mt. Meeker (photo below) and Long's Peak. It was quite the chilly day, especially once the sun left the face. Screaming barfies and wet cracks were encountered all too often

At the top of the Diamond and getting ready to rappel the face.